Last week was a little Spring preview for the Canadian Rockies! We managed to get some clients on top of some pretty rad lines and even had time to get out and play. Check this edit by Chris Rubens from last Tuesday on Vermillion Peak. Time to plan your spring ski mountaineering!
I got to ski a pair of early production Hoji’s for most of December while we guided the GAH Freeride Camps with Hoji himself. It was an ideal test because we were trying to ski hard, smash pillows and just enjoy the powder. In the end it was about 15 days days between 1200 and 1700 vertical meters each with some heavy trail breaking. I feel like I put them through the paces!
Did I love them? Mostly.
Are they the best boot I’ve ever used? Clearly.
Weight: 1460g for size 27.5 For the rest of the tech specs you should search the net. There’s already lots of that info out there. But How Do They Ski?
I’m not a big guy (5'9", 160lb) and maybe lean more to the finesse side than power side but they were plenty stiff enough for me. Like the Mercury with the tongue in, the Vulcan with no tongue or the Salomon MTN Lab. But better than these because they are noticeably more responsive (quicker reacting) due to the remarkably solid connection of the cuffs in ski mode. There is no wiggle or slop like there is in most touring boots. I didn’t realize how much I’d gotten use to the slop over the years. It felt like going back to true alpine boots.
The other benefit is that they have a nice, more classic ski boot flex that just feels natural. Most touring boots seem to bottom out or deform and give out a bit when flexed hard. The Hojis don’t. At least for me. If you are a bigger person looking for the stiffest boot, this might not be it, but compared to other boots of the same stiffness these are a clear upgrade.
The ankle strap/buckle locks your heel down even though it’s a higher volume boot and I have skinny feet. The combination of the Hoji’s forward lean, upper buckle, powerstrap and ankle strap set me up in a real nice stance for skiing hard. I always add a bit of a spoiler to my boots and it felt great with how stiff these suckers are to the rear. The boot is also noticeably stiffer laterally than anything I’ve been on lately. Their last is wide, which worked great for me while touring. My toes had plenty of room and there were no pressure points. After a few days, I started tightening the ankle strap for more aggressive lines and loosening it for touring but that’s pretty quick and easy to do.
How do they walk?
They walk better than anything else I’ve tried in their class. Skimo race boots walk with less effort but compared to any boot I could picture skiing hard in, the Hojis win. The Hoji Lock lever at the back opens things up enough that you can walk with minimal resistance forward and none backwards. The range of motion is great (better than any boot I know of in it’s class) and allows you to bend your ankle forward enough that you don’t need to fiddle with heel-lifters ever if you don’t want to. That’s a significant upgrade over the Salomon MTN Labs I use, which have a hard stop when you try to bend forward in walk mode.
The lateral rigidity, and the way the cuff stays done up in walk mode, felt great while touring on side-hills or hard snow. I usually get ankle pain in other boots because I have them wide open while touring. The way the Hoji opens, you still have that support without restricting the forward/back motion.
What they don’t do:
With no toe welt, they do not accept standard crampons. That’s a problem for me. Dynafit has developed a crampon of their own to counter this but that’s just fixing a problem that didn’t need to be created in my mind.
Likewise, you can not use alpine bindings at all. That’s not really a problem for me but I imagine it will be a deal breaker for many.
I’d like to test them out with Kingpins sometime soon. They say it’s not certified for that but I think it could work. It looks like there’s enough of a lip around the heel but I’d have to try it.
Why did they go without the toe welts? Sex appeal I think but the “Speed Toe” should make walking a bit easier as it moves the pivot point of tech bindings further back to a more natural walking point. I have to admit, I didn’t notice it though. I did notice it was way easier to step into tech bindings with the stubby toe and nice tech inserts for what that’s worth. I also noticed the lack of long “alpine toe” when walking on dry ground. At ridge top in the Rockies I hiked them over scree and frozen turf for a couple hours (don’t ask why!) and it was significantly nicer than doing so in other boots. Is that enough reason to shorten the toe? Probably not for me.
Does the Hoji Lock really make a difference?
I wasn't sold at the start. I tour enough that my change overs are fairly smooth and doing up a few buckles isn’t a deal breaker. After a week though, I didn’t want to go back. It’s just so easy and works so well. You set your boots up in ski mode when you put them on in the morning and never worry about them again. I liked it. I think it would be great for people new to touring too. One less thing to watch them fiddle with at every change over!
We love Sunrise Lodge and we had a chance to go there a couple years ago with the Volkl Crew. Check out Ingrid Backstrom's article on Biglines.com from the trip to see what this zone is all about. We have a handful of spaces available on at trip there Feb. 24, 2018. Contact Us if you are interested!
4FRNT Raven, Hoji, Renegade Mounting positions 2016/17
"Where should I mount my Hoji's?" People ask all the time so we went right to the source to get it right. Below you'll find mounting instructions from Eric himself which should be clear as mud. A couple points I'll add are that these skis are not shaped like a traditional ski or meant to be skied like a traditional ski, so resist the urge to mount them like a traditional ski. The gentle reverse camber, stiff flex pattern and mellow sidecut mean you aren't initiating turns at the tip and exiting at the tail like old race skis. Instead you initiate with a lateral movement to get them on edge while staying balanced over the centre of the ski (more or less). Youtube Eric skiing and it might make more sense! Picture an old-school ski mid-turn: it's flexed to reverse-camber, the edge is holding and you are centred. That's where you want to be for most of the turn on these puppies. For pillows, airs or tight areas, it's a more balanced and ready to react stance. Like I said, clear as mud!
1.The recommended boot sole mid point mounting positions is clearly labeled as a measurement from the tail of the ski in cm’s. This is my recommended mounting position but please read the following points to help you make the best decision possible to suite your needs.
2.It is always a good idea to double check any factory mount indicator marks (stamped in the sidewalls) to be sure you end up mounting your skis where you want them to be mounted.
3. I measure from the end of the tail of the skis with a ruler to find: The true centre of the ski’s length & the boot sole mid point that I will mount the ski with.
-My recommendations of boot sole mid point mounting locations (the recommended measurement printed on the top-sheet graphic) are based off my boot size 25.5/284 mm.
-Because my boot is small and I am not tall or that heavy173 cm & 69 kg (5’8” 152 lbs) and I prefer a more forward mounting position than some traditionalists, some interpretation may be necessary to dial in your mounting position:
-My general guideline for determining a mount position is based off my boot size, I usually recommend individuals with larger boot soles (usually taller/heavier than myself) adjust for their mounting position accordingly, here is an example:
-Boot sole size 27.5 (304 mm) so 304 mm - 284 mm(my boot) = 20 mm (in additional boot sole length) Dividedby 2 = 10 mm. Therefore I would recommend mounting a size 27.5 mid sole at -6.5 cm (my usual -5.5cm + 10mm) behind the true centre of the ski for Renegades and Hojis.
-My models of skis are meant to have an optimum mounting position area between -5 cm to -8 cm behind the true centre of the ski. *I would not recommend mounting outside of this optimum mounting area.
-General Mounting Boot Sole Mid Point Position -5.5 cm behind the true centre of the ski
Ren 186 = 87.5 cm measured from the tail
Ren 196 = 92.5 cm measured from the tail
-General Mounting Boot Sole Mid Point Position -5.5 cm behind the true centre of the ski
Hoji 179 = 84 cm measured from the tail
Hoji 187 = 88 cm cm measured from the tail
Hoji 195 = 92 cm measured from the tail
-General Mounting Boot Sole Mid Point Position -6 cm behind the true centre of the ski
Raven 184 = 86 cm measured from the tail
Raven 190 = 89 cm measured from the tail
Feel free to leave questions on our Facebook Page MTN Guiding and we'll get them answered for you.
A little update on conditions in the Rockies and what we’ve been up to the last couple weeks.
Basically there is nothing skiable below 2000m which means likely the only place you can skin up from the car is at or near Bow Summit on Highway 93N. So that’s what we’ve been doing.Read More
Standing on ridge top with our skis on, looking at the biggest run of our lives, after the biggest climb of our lives. Doubts still running through our heads whether we could be the first to ski this face without the use of rappels...Read More
A fairly honest look at what it's like to "Ski" lines early or even pre season.
Nov. 11, 2010 there was about as much snow as some early Octobers but Martin Lefebvre and I headed up the Aemmer Couloir on Mt. Temple anyway. Here's the story from Biglines.comRead More
We love skiing Rockies' couloirs! The last couple winters there have had mid-winter windows of great conditions for getting up and down some fun chutes. February 2015 was a good window for sure and lots of people got out skied lines. Here are some pics and a video of shredding couloirs with Chris Rubens around Boom Lake and Taylor Lake from then.Read More